- SIMON GIETL-

OBLIVION

TRE CIME DI LAVAREDO

Simon Gietl e Andrea Oberbacher aprono una straordinaria nuova via su una parete dolomitica mai scalata prima.

- SIMON GIETL -

OBLIVION

TRE CIME DI LAVAREDO

Simon Gietl e Andrea Oberbacher aprono una straordinaria nuova via su una parete dolomitica mai scalata prima.

Maggio 2017: Simon Gietl e Andrea Oberbacher si accingono a una missione. Si sono recati sul Piz d'Ander (La Dorada) nella splendida valle Edelweiß sopra Kolfuschg/Colfosco, sulle Dolomiti in Alta Badia. Simon aveva raggiunto la Valle Edelweiß alcuni anni prima, nel 2014, con l'amico, compagno di cordata e collega guida alpina Vittorio Messini. Insieme avevano dovuto penare non poco per aprire la “Neolit” (9-, 8 tiri) che condivide i primi due tiri della “Pescione e Airona” (7-), per poi interrompersi a sinistra seguendo uno sperone ripidissimo. Entrambi erano riusciti a superare il punto cruciale, quattro metri di arrampicata aggettante su splendide placche nere, rese lisce negli anni dall'acqua piovana. Simon vi è tornato nel 2014 con Patrick Seiwald e l'anno successivo con Andrea Oberbacher, per lavorare sui passaggi chiave, liberando infine la via il 16 aprile 2015.

Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberacher are climbing over an impressive roof, right under the arête after which the wall turns west. They are making the first free ascent of “Das Erbe der Väter” (The Heritage of our Fathers), the route that Simon opened with Vittorio Messini. It’s bold and traditional, ground up, protected with trad gear and pegs  and involves sport climbing difficulties up to UIAA 9-. This is the way Simon likes it: modern routes climbed free. Pure alpinism, similar to the ethics of our forefathers. You just have to watch him climb. Just look at the topo. Just look at how the route picks its way up through the sea of yellow rock. Respect. Simon grew up just outside Luttach, in the Aurina valley. He has always been a hard worker, first on his family’s farmstead, then as a carpenter. His first contact with climbing, fifteen or so years ago, was totally by chance. He was hitchhiking from Dobbiaco to Brunico, and a climber gave him a lift. After chatting and listening to the stories and tales shared during that drive, Simon decided to give climbing a go.

Both of them were able to unlock the crux – four metres of exposed climbing up beautiful, blank, black runnels worn smooth by rainwater over the years. Simon came back in 2014 with Patrick Seiwald and again in 2015 with Andrea Oberbacher to work the moves, finally freeing the route on 16 April 2015. The valley and its cliffs made such an impression on Simon that he’s been coming back ever since. He went on to establish two more new routes ground-up on the south-west face of La Dorada: ‘Spaßbremse ’ (8 pitches, 7+/8-) again with Andrea Oberbacher and ‘Hart Aber Fair’ with Simon Oberbacher (9 pitches, 9+). During each visit, despite his focus and the beautiful climbing on dreamlike rock, Simon kept glancing at another rock face to his right. A big south-east facing yellow wall that had never been climbed before. It had a huge roof. The first time Andrea and Simon had a good look to scope out a possible line they were blown away. The wall was so high and so steep. Could that roof go? And would they be able to find enough protection, without placing bolts? "We climb the first three pitches up over sometimes splintery rock from left to right, following a crack system to a large dihedral groove that looks like the main obstacle in the lower half of the route. From a pretty comfortable belay at its start, we manage two-thirds of the dihedral. The climbing is hard, so we stop before we get too exhausted. After a brief intermezzo involving an Alaska expedition and guiding commitments, we return and get back to work. Reaching our previous high point, we climb on to build a solid belay at the top of the dihedral. The next two pitches are a bit more straightforward and we reach the big roof – which protrudes some six metres. It’s clear that the only way through is to climb its widest part. The shadows are growing longer in the valley and dusk is imminent, so we abseil off. Back a few days later, we’re up at the roof again. This time we took a short cut by following a narrow ledge in to start back where we left off, saving time and energy. So here it goes, I peg and aid my way out under the roof, my feet swinging wildly below me, to finally pull up around the edge in an unbelievable sequence. Five metres above the roof, I find the perfect place to construct the next belay. I’m glad to have what must be the crux behind me. I spoke too soon. The next pitch turns out to be a monster. There’s no way we’re gonna reach the summit today, so we decide to head back down.

Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberacher are climbing over an impressive roof, right under the arête after which the wall turns west. They are making the first free ascent of “Das Erbe der Väter” (The Heritage of our Fathers). It’s bold and traditional, ground up, protected with trad gear and pegs  and involves sport climbing difficulties up to UIAA 9-. This is the way Simon likes it: pure alpinism, similar to the ethics of our forefathers. You just have to watch him climb. Respect. Simon grew up just outside Luttach, in the Aurina valley. He has always been a hard worker, first on his family’s farmstead, then as a carpenter. His first contact with climbing, fifteen or so years ago, was totally by chance. He was hitchhiking from Dobbiaco to Brunico, and a climber gave him a lift. After chatting and listening to the stories and tales shared during that drive, Simon decided to give climbing a go.

La valle e le pareti hanno affascinato Simon a tal punto da allora è tornato diverse volte, aprendo altre vie sul versante sud-ovest della Dorada: Spaßbremse (8 tiri, 7+/8-) ancora con Andrea Oberbacher e Hart Aber Fair con Simon Oberbacher (9 tiri, 9+). Durante ciascuna visita, nonostante la grande concentrazione e la splendida scalata su una roccia incredibile, Simon lanciava continue occhiate al versante roccioso alla sua destra: una grande parete gialla a sud est mai scalata prima d'allora. Aveva un tetto enorme. La prima volta che Andrea e Simon l’hanno esaminata con attenzione per individuarvi eventualmente una via sono rimasti stupefatti. La parete era davvero alta e ripida. Sarebbero mai riusciti a superare quel tetto? E sarebbero stati in grado di trovare sufficiente protezione, senza inserirvi degli spit? “Abbiamo scalato i primi tre tiri su alcune rocce friabili da sinistra a destra, seguendo un sistema di fessure fino a un ampio diedro, che pareva l'ostacolo maggiore nella metà inferiore della via. Partendo da una sosta piuttosto comoda, abbiamo affrontato i primi due terzi del diedro. La scalata si prospettava dura, così ci siamo fermati prima di stancarci troppo. Dopo una pausa che ha visto una spedizione in Alaska e il mio lavoro come guida alpina, siamo tornati e ci siamo rimessi all'opera. Arrivati al punto in cui ci eravamo fermati, siamo saliti per costruire una solida sosta in cima al diedro. I due tiri successivi si sono rivelati più semplici e abbiamo raggiunto il tetto grande, che si sporge per circa sei metri. Era chiaro che il solo modo per superarlo fosse dalla parte più larga. Nella valle però le ombre cominciavano ad allungarsi e il crepuscolo era imminente, così siamo scesi in doppia.

And he’s been climbing ever since. It didn’t take him long to decide that climbing, or rather, that specific way of climbing, was what he wanted to dedicate his life to. Or at least part of his life. He is also dedicated to Sandra, Iano and Iari, his wife and two children. This is why he inspires such admiration and respect. Simon is a man who understands the consequences of the choices he makes. He knows that his life is not only about himself. Every decision, including electing to open a route of that difficulty, from the ground up, on that rock, is tempered by a great sense of responsibility. The sun is starting to set behind Cima Ovest. Simon and Andrea are out of sight. They’ve reached the great ringband terrace and then the summit. The wind carries an exuberant shout of joy far towards the distant meadows of Misurina. A small flock of choughs flies past with complete indifference, heading towards who knows where. Das Erbe der Väter is a unique route. Without a doubt. It’s an innovative feat, opening a line of that level of difficulty using a traditional approach. It’s more than just a route, it’s a tribute to the climbers who laid the historical foundations of alpinism and a prophecy of the climbers who will envisage and create its future – on this same mountain – in years to come.

We return after a couple of days hoping to find a way through this steep, exposed upper wall. The extremely compact rock is riddled with fine cracks which are hard work to sit pegs in, but provide just enough small, positive holds for our hands and feet. This turns out to be the real crux of the route. The rock is so hard, it’s exhausting just trying to bang in the pitons. It takes me seven and a half hours to complete the pitch, build the next stance and then climb the last strenuous section to top out. Five days of hard work. Man, I was glad to see the summit. As I bring up Andrea, I start thinking about a possible redpoint. We spend a further three days cleaning the route, bouldering out the moves and internalizing the sequences. Then at the end of the third day of cleaning, I decide to go for it. The roof goes free, the moves flow on the crux pitch, and I’m able to complete the redpoint on my first attempt. Andrea joins me, sitting there at the summit is an amazing moment. Neither of us has ever climbed anything alpin as fantastically steep as this. We decide to name the route ‘Oblivion’ because the wall seems to have been forgotten by everyone else. We’re certainly going to remember it for a long time to come.” Simon and Andrea protected their new route ‘Oblivion’ with Friends, nuts and pitons only. It has no bolts. The pair took five days to establish the line, before Simon red-pointed it on 21 May 2017. The approach involves an easy walk-in from the charismatic Edelweiss mountain hut. The Edelweiß Valley is a secluded, little-known Dolomite paradise. Thanks to the south-facing cliffs, you can climb early in the season, from March or April, throughout the year. FACTS - Route: Oblivion - First ascent: Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher, redpoint 21 May 2017 - Grade: 9 - Length: 9 pitches - Protection: pitons, one set of Friends, one set of BD cams down to size 2, after cleaning, the route was red-pointed, the pitons were left in place, no bolts were placed - Area: Dolomites - Group: Puez-Odle - Peak: Piz d’Ander (La Dorada) - Height: 2250m - Country: Italy - Region: Alta Badia, South Tyrol - Directions: Take the Gadertal SS244 to Kolfuschg/Colfosco. Follow signs for “Edelweisshütte” and park at start of forest road - Approach: Head for the Edelweisshütte, then follow the forest road to the left to the foot of wall (45min) - Start of route: Look for the south-east facing yellow wall with the big roof – you can’t miss it - Descent: From the summit loop down to the right, there is an obvious trail (#4) that leads quickly back to the Edelweiss hut - Characteristics: Steep face climbing with a big roof and strenuous pitches to the summit, rock quality splintery at first, later excellent

It didn’t take him long to decide that climbing was what he wanted to dedicate his life to. Or at least part of his life. He is also dedicated to Sandra, Iano and Iari, his wife and two children. He knows that his life is not only about himself. Every decision, including electing to open a route of that difficulty, from the ground up, on that rock, is tempered by a great sense of responsibility. The sun is starting to set behind Cima Ovest. Simon and Andrea are out of sight. They’ve reached the great ringband terrace and then the summit. The wind carries an exuberant shout of joy far towards the distant meadows of Misurina. Das Erbe der Väter is more than just a route, it’s a tribute to the climbers who laid the historical foundations of alpinism and a prophecy of the climbers who will envisage and create its future – on this same mountain – in years to come.

Siamo tornati alcuni giorni più tardi e siamo di nuovo arrivati sul tetto. Stavolta abbiamo presto una scorciatoia seguendo una cengia angusta per ricominciare da dove avevamo lasciato, risparmiando tempo ed energie. Funziona così: picchettando attraverso la via sotto il tetto, con i piedi che oscillano furiosamente nel vuoto, e finalmente esco in una sequenza incredibile di movimenti. A cinque metri sopra il tetto trovo il posto perfetto per costruire la sosta successiva. Sono contento di essermi lasciato il punto cruciale alle spalle. Ma ho parlato troppo presto. Il tiro successivo si rivela terribile. Non c’è modo di raggiungere la vetta quel giorno, così decidiamo di tornare giù. Un paio di giorni dopo siamo di nuovo lì, sperando di trovare una via attraverso questa parete esposta e ripida. La roccia estremamente compatta è coperta da fessure così sottili da rendere praticamente impossibile inserirvi dei chiodi, ma almeno offre sufficienti appoggi per mani e piedi. Capiamo che è questo il vero punto cruciale della via. La roccia è talmente dura che ci stanchiamo soltanto cercando di piantarvi dei chiodi. Mi ci sono volute sette ore e mezzo per concludere il tiro, approntare la sosta successiva e quindi affrontare l'ultima, durissima sessione prima di arrivare in cima. Cinque giorni di duro lavoro. Credetemi, ero davvero felice di essere in vetta. Mentre tiravo su Andrea ho cominciato a pensare a una possibile redpoint. Passiamo altri tre giorni a ripulire la via, facendo bouldering per assimilare le sequenze dei movimenti. Poi, alla fine del terzo giorno di ripulitura, ho deciso di provarci. Superato il tetto, i movimenti scorrevano fluidi sul tiro cruciale e sono riuscito a completare la redpoint al primo tentativo. Andrea mi ha raggiunto e ci siamo seduti per gustare questo momento fantastico. Nessuno di noi aveva mai scalato prima qualcosa di così alpino e incredibilmente ripido. Decidiamo di chiamare la via “Oblivion”, perché la parete sembrava essere stata dimenticata da tutti. Una cosa è certa: noi ce ne ricorderemo ancora per moltissimo tempo”. Simon e Andrea hanno protetto la loro nuova via Oblivion soltanto con friend, dadi e chiodi. Non hanno usato spit. I due alpinisti ci hanno messo cinque giorni per aprire la via, prima che Simon la liberasse in redpoint il 21 maggio 2017. L'avvicinamento comporta una facile passeggiata dal caratteristico rifugio alpino Edelweiß. La Valle Edelweiß è un paradiso poco noto e appartato sulle Dolomiti. Grazie alle pareti esposte a sud, è possibile iniziare ad arrampicarsi presto, da marzo o aprile e per tutto l'anno.

- SIMON GIETL -

OBLIVION

Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher establish impressive new route on previously unclimbed Dolomite face.

The valley and its cliffs made such an impression on Simon that he’s been coming back ever since. He went on to establish two more new routes ground-up on the south-west face of La Dorada: ‘Spaßbremse ’ (8 pitches, 7+/8-) again with Andrea Oberbacher and ‘Hart Aber Fair’ with Simon Oberbacher (9 pitches, 9+). During each visit, despite his focus and the beautiful climbing on dreamlike rock, Simon kept glancing at another rock face to his right. A big south-east facing yellow wall that had never been climbed before. It had a huge roof. The first time Andrea and Simon had a good look to scope out a possible line they were blown away. The wall was so high and so steep. Could that roof go? And would they be able to find enough protection, without placing bolts? "We climb the first three pitches up over sometimes splintery rock from left to right, following a crack system to a large dihedral groove that looks like the main obstacle in the lower half of the route. From a pretty comfortable belay at its start, we manage two-thirds of the dihedral. The climbing is hard, so we stop before we get too exhausted. After a brief intermezzo involving an Alaska expedition and guiding commitments, we return and get back to work. Reaching our previous high point, we climb on to build a solid belay at the top of the dihedral. The next two pitches are a bit more straightforward and we reach the big roof – which protrudes some six metres. It’s clear that the only way through is to climb its widest part. The shadows are growing longer in the valley and dusk is imminent, so we abseil off. Back a few days later, we’re up at the roof again. This time we took a short cut by following a narrow ledge in to start back where we left off, saving time and energy. So here it goes, I peg and aid my way out under the roof, my feet swinging wildly below me, to finally pull up around the edge in an unbelievable sequence. Five metres above the roof, I find the perfect place to construct the next belay. I’m glad to have what must be the crux behind me. I spoke too soon. The next pitch turns out to be a monster. There’s no way we’re gonna reach the summit today, so we decide to head back down.

We return after a couple of days hoping to find a way through this steep, exposed upper wall. The extremely compact rock is riddled with fine cracks which are hard work to sit pegs in, but provide just enough small, positive holds for our hands and feet. This turns out to be the real crux of the route. The rock is so hard, it’s exhausting just trying to bang in the pitons. It takes me seven and a half hours to complete the pitch, build the next stance and then climb the last strenuous section to top out. Five days of hard work. Man, I was glad to see the summit. As I bring up Andrea, I start thinking about a possible redpoint. We spend a further three days cleaning the route, bouldering out the moves and internalizing the sequences. Then at the end of the third day of cleaning, I decide to go for it. The roof goes free, the moves flow on the crux pitch, and I’m able to complete the redpoint on my first attempt. Andrea joins me, sitting there at the summit is an amazing moment. Neither of us has ever climbed anything alpin as fantastically steep as this. We decide to name the route ‘Oblivion’ because the wall seems to have been forgotten by everyone else. We’re certainly going to remember it for a long time to come.” Simon and Andrea protected their new route ‘Oblivion’ with Friends, nuts and pitons only. It has no bolts. The pair took five days to establish the line, before Simon red-pointed it on 21 May 2017. The approach involves an easy walk-in from the charismatic Edelweiss mountain hut. The Edelweiß Valley is a secluded, little-known Dolomite paradise. Thanks to the south-facing cliffs, you can climb early in the season, from March or April, throughout the year.

FACTS

Route: Oblivion
First ascent: Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher, redpoint 21 May 2017
Grade: 9 Length: 9 pitches
Protection: pitons, one set of Friends, one set of BD cams down to size 2, after cleaning, the route was red-pointed, the pitons were left in place, no bolts were placed
Area: Dolomites
Group: Puez-Odle
Peak: Piz d’Ander (La Dorada) Height: 2250m
Country: Italy
Region: Alta Badia, South Tyrol
Directions: Take the Gadertal SS244 to Kolfuschg/Colfosco. Follow signs for “Edelweisshütte” and park at start of forest road
Approach: Head for the Edelweisshütte, then follow the forest road to the left to the foot of wall (45min)
Start of route: Look for the south-east facing yellow wall with the big roof – you can’t miss it
Descent: From the summit loop down to the right, there is an obvious trail (#4) that leads quickly back to the Edelweiss hut
Characteristics: Steep face climbing with a big roof and strenuous pitches to the summit, rock quality splintery at first, later excellent